Three install methods, every one of them code-aware and water-managed: Nail-Fin (new construction / full-frame), Retrofit (pocket / insert), and Block-Frame (straight-through). Pick the method that matches your wall.
Tools required
Tape measure (25 ft)
4 ft level + 2 ft level
Cordless drill / impact driver
Pry bar + flat bar
Hammer + nail set
Utility knife
Caulking gun
Composite shims (10+ per opening)
Safety glasses + cut-resistant gloves
Step ladder (or extension ladder for upper floors)
Square or speed square
Verify the unit + the opening
Most failed installs start before a single screw goes in. Check what shipped, then check what you're putting it into.
Unpack the window without using a blade on the wrapping near the frame or glass surfaces.
Confirm size, glazing package, color (interior + exterior), hand of operation, and grilles against your order confirmation.
Inspect for shipping damage: dents in the frame, chipped corners, broken glass, missing screen, cracked seal at the spacer.
Measure the rough opening width at top / middle / bottom and the height at left / center / right. Record the SMALLEST of each.
Verify the opening is 1/2 inch wider and 1/2 inch taller than the window's frame size. Less = it won't go in; more = harder to flash properly.
Check that the rough sill is flat with a level. Anything more than 1/8 inch of dip across the span needs to be shimmed flat before the unit goes in.
If replacement: inspect the existing frame, sill, and sheathing for rot. Soft spots get rebuilt now, not papered over.
Do NOT proceed with damage — even a small chipped corner on a vinyl frame compromises the air seal. Photograph, log a claim within 48 hours, and stop.
Pull siding + remove the old unit (replacement only)
For new construction, skip to Step 3. For full-frame replacement, the goal is exposed sheathing + WRB around the entire opening so you can re-flash from scratch.
Pull siding/trim back around the opening — typically 12 inches on all sides — to expose the WRB and nail fins of the existing window.
Score the WRB and old flashing tape so you can fold it back without tearing it (you'll re-integrate it with the new flashing).
Mask the interior to catch debris.
Carefully remove interior trim/casing, store flat if you plan to reuse it.
Back out or cut every fastener through the existing nail fin.
Lift the old window out from outside as a unit — a helper supports the bottom while you tilt the top forward.
Scrape every fragment of old sealant, flashing tape, foam, and shim from the opening. The new tape and sealant won't bond to old residue.
Inspect sheathing and framing closely — any rot or termite damage gets cut out and replaced NOW.
If your home was built before 1978 in the US (or before 1980 in Canada), exterior paint may contain lead. Wet the surface before scraping and use proper PPE.
Flash the rough opening (sill pan first)
Water is the #1 reason windows fail. A sloped sill pan + shingled jamb flashing turns the opening into a drainage path even if the sealant fails 10 years from now.
Install or build a sloped sill pan — store-bought plastic pans are fastest; site-built with flashing tape works if pitched 1/4 inch toward exterior.
The pan must turn UP at the back and sides by at least 1 inch — this creates a dam against any water that gets past the sealant.
Apply 9-inch self-adhered flashing tape to the JAMBS, extending 6 inches above and below the opening, and lapping OVER the sill pan flanges.
Leave the head (top) of the opening unflashed — head flashing goes on AFTER the window is set so it laps over the window's nail fin.
Roll all flashing tape firmly with a J-roller for full adhesion. Any wrinkles or fishmouths get cut and patched.
Don't reverse the flashing order. Sill first, jambs next (over sill), head last (over the nail fin). Lapping the wrong way funnels water INTO the wall.
Bead the nail fin + dry-set the window
The window is set from the exterior side, with a continuous bead of sealant on the BACK of the nail fin so it self-seals to the WRB as you fasten.
Lay the window face-down on a padded surface. Apply a continuous 3/8-inch bead of polyurethane or hybrid sealant on the BACK of the nail fin around the head and both jambs.
Do NOT bead the bottom (sill) fin. The sill pan needs to drain — sealing the bottom traps any water that gets past the seal.
With a helper, lift the window into the opening from OUTSIDE. The bottom goes in first, then tilt the top in.
Center the window in the opening side-to-side — equal gap left and right.
Press the unit firmly against the exterior so the nail fin seats flat against the WRB or sheathing — the bead should squeeze out slightly.
Tack with one fastener through the upper corner of each side fin — just enough to hold position, not driven home.
Shim, plumb, square, then fasten
Get it level, plumb, and square BEFORE you finish nailing. Two fastening systems work together: the nail fin holds plane against the WRB; jamb screws hold the unit square. Per SAWDAC industry spec, BOTH are required — the fin alone is not enough.
Place composite shim pairs from inside at the SILL every 16 inches on center, and at the JAMBS every 24 inches on center.
Do NOT place shims at the HEAD — the header above can deflect and bind the sash if loaded.
Check PLUMB on both jambs with a 4 ft level. Adjust shim depth until both read level vertically.
Check LEVEL across the head. Unit is square when both jambs are plumb AND the head is level.
Measure DIAGONALLY corner-to-corner both ways. Differences over 1/8 inch mean racked — adjust shims.
Open and close every sash. They should operate smoothly with even reveal. If something binds, the unit is still out of square.
Fasten the NAIL FIN per the manufacturer's spec — typically 8 inches on center around the perimeter, no closer than 3 inches from each corner. Galvanized roofing nails or specified screws.
Drive ROUND-HEAD rust-protected SCREWS through each shim pair at the jambs into the framing — this is the structural fastening. Snug, not overtight.
Do NOT drive fasteners through the SILL — fasteners in the sill compromise the unit's internal drainage path.
Wide windows (over 65 inches): add ONE fastener at the mid-point of the sill driven through the ACCESSORY GROOVE (not through the sill itself) to prevent bowing.
Overdriving fasteners deforms the jamb. Drive until snug, no more. If a fastener spins or strips, back it out, plug the hole with epoxy, and re-drill.
Head flashing + re-integrate the WRB
Now that the unit is fastened in plane, the head gets its drip cap and flashing tape — the last layer of shingled water management. Per building code, a drip cap is REQUIRED above every window head.
Install a metal drip cap above the window, sloped to shed water away from the frame.
The drip cap's BACK LEG must extend at least 2 INCHES up behind the building paper / WRB. Less and water can run behind the cap.
If siding J-channel is installed above the drip cap, it MUST have drainage holes — otherwise it traps water at the head.
Apply 9-inch flashing tape across the head, lapping OVER the top nail fin and OVER the top of the jamb flashing — never under.
Slip the top edge of the head flashing tape UNDER the WRB (house wrap) above. Correct lap order: top-WRB over head-flash, head-flash over jamb-flash, jamb-flash over sill-flash.
Tape any cuts or seams in the WRB to maintain the building's air and water barrier.
Run a J-roller over every seam for full adhesion.
If the head flashing isn't installed AFTER the window, you've created a water channel into the wall. There is no other order that works long-term.
Two-bead foam insulation + air-barrier continuity
The shim cavity is now a thermal bridge unless you fill it. SAWDAC spec: TWO beads of low-expansion polyurethane foam on all four sides — one near the exterior, one near the interior — so the foam makes continuous contact with the interior poly air/vapour barrier.
Confirm your foam can is labeled 'WINDOW & DOOR' or 'LOW EXPANSION'. Standard yellow foam WILL bow the jamb.
FIRST BEAD: apply about 1 inch deep along the OUTSIDE edge of the window frame, directly behind the brickmold / nail fin. Run continuously on all four sides.
SECOND BEAD: apply about 1 inch deep along the INSIDE edge of the window frame. Run continuously on all four sides.
If jamb extensions aren't pre-sealed to the frame, make sure your interior bead covers the joint between the jamb extension and the window frame on all four sides.
Caulk the ENDS of every shim where they meet the framing so the foam-to-poly air seal is continuous.
Let the foam cure fully per the can's instructions — typically 4 to 8 hours. Don't rush.
Trim excess cured foam flush with the interior jamb using a serrated knife or saw.
Apply a continuous bead of interior-grade acoustic sealant between the interior poly air/vapour barrier and the window jamb — this completes the building's air-barrier continuity through the rough opening.
Restore siding + interior trim + water test
Final water seal on the exterior, casing on the interior, and the operation tests that prove the install.
Restore the siding around the opening, lapping it over the new head flashing per your siding's specification.
Caulk the siding-to-brickmold joints on the sides and top with exterior sealant. Leave the BOTTOM open at the weep area so any water that gets in can drain out.
Install interior casing (trim). Pre-prime mitered ends for paint adhesion.
Caulk casing-to-wall joints with paintable acrylic-latex caulk.
Operate the window 10+ times. Should be smooth and crisp.
Hose test: spray water across the exterior at a downward angle for 5 minutes. Check the interior for any moisture.
Register your warranty with Panes via your order confirmation page.
Entry Doors
Pre-hung fiberglass or steel entry door install — inswing, single or double, with or without sidelites. Eight steps cover everything from rough-opening inspection to the final water test.
Tools required
Tape measure (25 ft)
4 ft level + 6 ft level (or 4 ft + a long straight-edge)
Cordless drill / impact driver
Reciprocating saw or oscillating multi-tool (replacement only)
Pry bar + flat bar + cat's paw
Hammer
Composite shims (2–3 packs)
Caulking gun
Utility knife + chisel set
Safety glasses + cut-resistant gloves
Step ladder
Square or speed square
Pre-installation inspection
30 minutes of inspection up front saves hours later. Check what shipped, then check what you're putting it into.
Remove all packaging carefully. NEVER cut directly into the wrapping with a blade — score the cardboard from outside in.
Verify against your order confirmation: size, slab color, glass design, hand of swing, sidelite configuration, hardware bore.
Inspect for shipping damage: dents, chipped paint, glass cracks, broken weatherstrip, bent threshold.
If any damage or mismatch is found, photograph it and contact Panes within 48 hours. Do not proceed.
Store the door upright in a clean, dry area until install — do not lay flat (warps the slab over time).
Measure the rough opening width at top / middle / bottom and height at left / center / right. Use the SMALLEST of each.
Verify rough opening is 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch wider AND 1/2 inch taller than the door frame.
Check the subfloor/threshold area is level. Use shims to level if needed BEFORE the unit goes in.
Inspect header, jack studs, and sill for rot or damage. Repair now, not later.
If your existing threshold is rotted on a replacement, the rot is almost always worse in the framing behind it. Don't paper over — pull the trim and inspect the sheathing.
Remove the existing door (replacement only)
New construction: skip to Step 3. For retrofit, the goal is a clean, square, ready-to-flash rough opening.
Open the existing door fully and support the slab against tipping while you work on it.
Remove the hinge pins from bottom to top by tapping upward with a nail and hammer. Lift the slab off the hinges and set it aside.
Score the perimeter caulk on the interior trim and exterior brickmold with a utility knife.
Carefully pry off the interior casing/trim. Save it if you plan to reuse.
Use a pry bar to remove the existing frame — work around the perimeter, don't lever in one spot or you'll damage the framing.
Remove every old screw, nail, shim, and chunk of caulk from the rough opening. The new sealant won't bond to old residue.
Scrape off any old weatherstripping adhesive from the framing.
Vacuum and inspect. Repair any framing damage before moving on.
Flash the opening + prep the sill
Water management is the #1 cause of premature door frame rot. Done right, the rough opening sheds water even if the sealant fails decades later.
Install a sloped sill pan — pre-formed or site-built with flashing tape, pitched 1/4 inch toward the exterior.
The sill pan must turn UP at the back and sides at least 1 inch to dam any water that gets past the threshold seal.
Apply 9-inch self-adhered flashing tape to the JAMBS, extending 6 inches above and below the opening, lapping OVER the sill pan flanges.
Leave the HEAD of the opening unflashed — head flashing goes on AFTER the door is set, lapping over the brickmold.
If installing on a concrete sill or porch slab, apply masonry sealer and let cure before proceeding.
Apply a continuous bead of polyurethane sealant along the front lip of the sill pan where the threshold will land.
Verify the opening is plumb and square: level on both jambs, level across the head, equal diagonals.
Don't skip the sill pan. The threshold's gasket is the FIRST line of defense; the sill pan is the LAST line when (not if) that gasket fails.
Set the pre-hung unit + tack it
The unit goes into the opening from outside, gets centered, and is temporarily fastened so you can adjust before committing.
With a helper (and ideally a third person inside to receive), lift the entire pre-hung unit and carry it to the opening.
Tilt the bottom into the opening first, then walk the top in. The threshold should land flat on the sealed sill pan.
Center the frame side-to-side in the opening — equal reveal on both jambs.
Press the brickmold (or flange) flat against the exterior WRB/sheathing.
Temporarily secure with TWO screws through the hinge-side jamb (top and bottom). Drive them snug, NOT tight — you still need adjustment range.
Don't fasten the latch side yet. Final adjustment happens there.
Plumb, square, shim, and final-fasten
This is the make-or-break step. A door that's plumb and square will swing perfectly for decades. One that's racked will rub, stick, and refuse to latch.
Place composite shim PAIRS behind the hinge-side jamb at each hinge location, plus the head and at the strike plate on the latch side.
Check the hinge-side jamb for PLUMB with a 4 ft (or longer) level. Adjust shims until it reads dead plumb.
Check the head for LEVEL. Shim from inside the frame on the high side if needed.
Check the latch-side jamb for plumb. Adjust strike-area shims as needed.
Open the door slowly and let go in the middle of its swing. It should stay put — no drift either way. Drift = racked frame, NOT done yet.
Close the door and check the reveal (gap between slab and frame) around all four sides. Should be a consistent ~1/8 inch.
Once perfect, drive 3-inch screws THROUGH each shim pair into the jack studs. Drive snug, don't overtighten.
Replace the short hinge screws (top hinge first) with one long 3-inch screw per hinge that anchors into the framing — adds security and stiffens the hinge side.
Trim shims flush with the jamb using a utility knife or fine-tooth saw.
Driving fasteners between shims (not through them) bows the jamb inward and the door will bind. Always shim BEHIND every fastener.
Install hardware + verify operation
Lockset, deadbolt, handle — and the strike plate is where most installs need final dialing.
Install the lockset and deadbolt following the manufacturer's instructions included with the door.
Test latch operation by closing the door slowly — the bolt should slide smoothly into the strike without forcing.
If the bolt misses the strike, mark where it's hitting the strike plate. Enlarge the strike mortise slightly with a chisel until alignment is clean.
Replace at least one strike-plate screw with a 3-inch screw into the framing. (This is the single biggest kick-in resistance upgrade you can do.)
Install the door handle, kick plate, peephole, and any additional hardware.
If sidelites are part of the unit, verify each sidelite is properly secured to the mullion and the bottom corners are sealed.
If the door has a multi-point lock, engage and disengage it from inside and outside. Adjust strike-plate keepers per manufacturer spec until each point engages cleanly.
Insulate, weather-seal, and finish-flash
Fill the shim cavity (correctly), apply the exterior weather seal, and put the head flashing on AFTER the unit is fastened.
Confirm your spray foam can is labeled 'LOW EXPANSION' or 'WINDOW & DOOR'. Standard high-expansion foam will bow the jamb.
Apply foam in a single pass around the perimeter, filling about HALF the cavity depth. It will expand to fill the rest.
Let foam cure fully per the can's instructions — typically 4 to 8 hours. Don't rush this.
Trim cured foam flush with the interior jamb.
Install a metal drip cap (head flashing) above the door, sloped to shed water away.
Apply 9-inch flashing tape across the head, lapping OVER the top of the brickmold and OVER the top of the jamb flashing.
Slip the top edge of the head flashing UNDER the WRB (house wrap) above to maintain the shingled lap.
Apply exterior sealant around the entire exterior perimeter — brickmold to siding — on the sides and top. Leave the bottom OPEN at the weep area.
Install or adjust the weatherstripping along all four edges. The door should compress the strip evenly when closed.
Verify the door sweep contacts the threshold evenly across its full width. Adjust the sweep or threshold height to eliminate any gap.
Leaving the bottom exterior bead OPEN is correct. The threshold and frame have internal weep paths — sealing the bottom traps any water that gets in and rots the sill from inside.
Operation test + finishing + warranty
The install is mechanically done. These last checks prove it works and lock in your warranty coverage.
Open and close the door 10+ times — operation should be smooth, even, and quiet.
Lock and unlock the deadbolt and handle lock from both sides.
Close the door and look for daylight around the perimeter from inside (in a darkened room). Any light = a weatherstrip gap to address.
Run your hand around the closed door perimeter — feel for any air drafts.
Water test: pour a cup of water on the exterior threshold. It must drain AWAY from the interior. If it pools or runs in, the slope is wrong.
Install interior casing/trim around the frame. Caulk the casing-to-wall joints.
Touch up paint or stain on trim edges and any chip or scuff.
Remove protective film from glass panels. Clean glass with a non-abrasive cleaner.
Install any remaining accessories — address numbers, smart-lock components, doorbell.
Register your warranty via your Panes order confirmation page. Save the order documentation in a known location.
Sliding Patio Doors
Install a 2-, 3-, or 4-panel sliding patio door. Heavier glass, longer track, larger opening — but the same fundamentals: square frame, level track, drained sill. Eight steps, two people minimum.
Tools required
Tape measure (25 ft)
4 ft level + 6 ft level (or 4 ft + a long straight-edge)
Cordless drill / impact driver
Reciprocating saw or oscillating multi-tool (replacement only)
Pry bar + flat bar
Hammer + nail set
Composite shims (3+ packs — larger opening means more)
Caulking gun (2 — for sealant + sill bedding)
Utility knife + chisel
Suction cup pulls (panel handling — strongly recommended)
Safety glasses + cut-resistant gloves
Step ladder
Square or large speed square
Inventory + opening verification
Sliding doors arrive in multiple pieces — frame, fixed panel(s), operating panel(s), screen, hardware. Inventory everything before you start.
Unpack and inventory all components: head jamb, side jambs, sill/threshold, each panel (fixed + operating), screen, rollers, lock hardware, screws.
Verify configuration matches your order: panel count, operating side (left or right viewed from outside), color, glass package, hand of lock.
Inspect every glass panel for chips, cracks, or seal damage at the spacer.
If anything is damaged or missing, photograph and report to Panes within 48 hours before proceeding.
Measure rough opening width at top / middle / bottom and height at left / center / right. Use the SMALLEST of each.
Verify rough opening is 1/2 inch wider AND 1/2 inch taller than the frame's exterior dimensions.
Check the sill is flat — anything more than 1/8 inch dip across the span gets shimmed or planed flat first.
Inspect framing for rot. A sliding door's wider opening means more sheathing exposure — repair anything questionable.
Store glass panels VERTICALLY against a wall, padded at the contact points. Laying them flat or stacking is how 80% of pre-install panel breaks happen.
Remove the existing door (replacement only)
New construction: skip to Step 3. For retrofit, remove panels first, then the frame.
Mask floors and the interior surrounding wall.
Remove the screen first by lifting straight up and tilting the bottom out.
Remove the operating panel: open it halfway, lift straight up to disengage the bottom rollers from the track, tilt the bottom toward you and out. Two people minimum.
Remove the fixed panel: usually retained by screws at the top or bottom — locate, remove, then lift out.
Score perimeter caulk on interior trim and exterior brickmold.
Remove interior casing/trim, save if reusing.
For nail-fin frames: cut fins flush with the framing using a reciprocating saw or oscillating tool. Don't tear the WRB.
Back out all perimeter fasteners, then lift the empty frame out as a unit (still heavy — use a helper).
Scrape all old sealant, foam, and shims. Vacuum the opening. Inspect framing.
Flash the opening (oversized sill pan)
A slider's threshold spans 5+ feet of opening. Any water that gets in has 5+ feet of sill to find. The sill pan is non-negotiable.
Install a continuous sloped sill pan across the full opening width — pitched 1/4 inch toward exterior, with a 1-inch up-turn at the back and both ends.
If using a site-built pan with flashing tape, lap each piece in shingled fashion — never butt joints.
Apply 9-inch flashing tape to both jambs, extending 6 inches above and below the opening, lapping OVER the sill pan.
Leave the head unflashed for now (it goes on after the frame is set).
Apply a thick continuous bead of polyurethane sealant along the front lip of the sill pan where the threshold will sit. THIS is the primary water seal at the sill.
If installing over a concrete porch, apply masonry sealer first and let cure.
Sliders cannot tolerate a sill that holds water. If your existing porch slopes back TOWARD the house, you need to address that BEFORE installing — either grind a slope or build the door up on a properly sloped subsill.
Set + square the empty frame
Install the frame alone, no panels yet. With less weight and no panels to fight, you can square it perfectly.
With a helper, lift the empty frame into the opening from outside. Tilt the bottom in first, then walk the top in.
Center the frame side-to-side — equal reveal on both jambs.
Press the brickmold or nail fin flat against the exterior.
Temporarily tack with one screw through the head — just enough to hold position.
Place composite shim PAIRS behind both jambs at the head, middle, and sill, plus mid-points if the opening is over 6 ft tall.
Check BOTH jambs for plumb with a 4 ft level. Adjust shims until both read dead plumb.
Check the HEAD for level. Shim from inside the frame on the high side if needed.
Critical: check the SILL/THRESHOLD for level with a 4 ft level placed in MULTIPLE positions across its span. A 6 ft slider needs the track flat end-to-end.
Measure diagonals corner to corner — both diagonals must match within 1/8 inch or the panels won't seat correctly.
Once perfectly square, drive 3-inch screws through each shim pair into the framing. Per nail fin spec on the exterior side.
Install the fixed panel(s)
Fixed panels mount permanently into the frame and provide the alignment reference for the operating panel(s).
With a helper and suction cup pulls, lift the fixed panel into the frame. Bottom into the track first, then tilt the top in.
Slide the fixed panel into its designated position per the manufacturer's diagram.
Verify the panel sits squarely against its jamb stop with no rocking and even reveal.
Secure the fixed panel per the manufacturer's spec — typically screws at the top and bottom into the frame's blocking.
Apply gasket or sealant per the manufacturer's spec at any panel-to-frame joints to seal against air/water infiltration.
For 3- and 4-panel configurations: install both fixed panels (typically on the outside ends) before any operating panels.
Install the operating panel + adjust rollers
This is the most physical step. Get it right and the panel glides for decades.
If you removed the rollers for transport, reinstall them in the operating panel's bottom rail. Adjust to maximum down position (most extended) before lifting the panel.
With a helper and suction cup pulls, lift the operating panel high into the head track, then drop the bottom rollers into the bottom track.
Slide the panel back and forth gently to confirm the rollers are seated correctly in the track.
Close the panel against its strike jamb. Check the reveal at the top, bottom, and where the panel meets the fixed panel — should all be even.
Adjust the rollers (typically a screw at the bottom corner of each end of the operating panel) to bring the panel into alignment. Raise one corner until the panel sits parallel to the jamb.
Open and close the panel several times. Operation should be smooth with one finger of force throughout the travel.
Install the operating panel's stops (cushions at the head track that limit travel) per the manufacturer's spec.
Test the lock: close the panel and engage the lock. Lock pin/hook must seat fully into the keeper. Adjust the keeper position on the strike jamb if needed.
If the panel drifts on its own when you let go in the middle of the track, the frame is NOT level. Don't try to fix this with roller adjustment — re-check the threshold and re-shim the sill if needed. Roller adjustment can't fix a tilted track.
Insulate, head flash, exterior seal
Same water-management sequence as a door — low-expansion foam in the cavity, drip cap and head flashing AFTER the frame is set, exterior bead with bottom kept open.
Confirm spray foam is LOW EXPANSION (door/window grade). Standard foam bows the jambs.
Apply foam in a single pass around the perimeter, filling half the cavity depth — it will expand to fill the rest.
Cure 4–8 hours per the can. Don't rush.
Trim cured foam flush with the interior jambs.
Install a metal drip cap above the head, full width, sloped to shed water away.
Apply 9-inch flashing tape across the head, lapping OVER the brickmold AND OVER the top of the jamb flashing.
Slip the top edge of the head flashing UNDER the WRB above to maintain the shingled lap.
Apply a continuous bead of exterior sealant around the entire perimeter — SIDES and TOP. Leave the BOTTOM open at the threshold weep area.
Install the screen door per the manufacturer's instructions. Test that it operates smoothly on its own track.
Operation, weatherstrip, finish + warranty
Final adjustments, casing, water test, warranty registration.
Open and close the operating panel 10+ times. Should glide smoothly throughout the full travel — no binding, no scraping.
Engage and disengage the lock 5+ times. Should engage with no resistance and not require lifting/lowering the panel.
Close the panel and look for daylight around the panel-to-frame seal in a darkened room. Any light means a weatherstrip gap to address.
Run your hand along the closed-panel perimeter — feel for any air drafts.
Pour a cup of water across the exterior threshold and onto the sill. Water should drain through the weep holes to the exterior — never pool on the interior side.
Inspect every weatherstrip — head, jambs, sill — for full contact with the panel when closed. Replace any sections that are pinched, torn, or unseated.
Install interior casing/trim around the frame. Caulk casing-to-wall joints.
Touch up paint or stain on trim.
Remove protective film from glass and frame. Clean glass.
Register your warranty via your Panes order confirmation. Save documentation.